Eyes and Escapes

(Part 1 – Getting There, Day 1 and 2)

The end of my Varkala trip marked the beginning of summer in Bangalore. It was getting warmer by the day. My apartment, being on the topmost floor, heats up like an oven. My workplace? Also an oven. So, I decided to escape the summer heat.

I longed to go somewhere snowy—but that would take two full days of travel, which I couldn’t afford this time. So I booked a 4-day, 3-night trip from Bangalore to Mussoorie.

The weather forecast said Mussoorie was just as warm as Bangalore, but I still held on to hope. Especially because of where I was staying: Zostel Plus, Kempty Falls.

A Stay Down in the Valley 🌄

The Zostel Plus is nestled down in the valley surrounded by Himalayan foothills. It’s closer to the plains and hence the mountain ranges scale to an altitude of 4500 feet. Just half the altitude of Tirthan valley. Also, this explains the relatively warmer temperatures here.

Though the weather in April in Dehradun was as hot as in Bangalore, Kempty falls offered some relief if not completely.

I was damn sure I would meet people who would suggest or let me tag along. This was proved wrong, right on my face. And somehow this was a good thing. Because travel is not just about “Must visits” or “Meeting new people” or “wild stories” or even “escapes”

This trip in fact taught me – “travel could be a sacred, spiritual, ME time with the NATURE and not just an escape”

Getting to Kempty Falls from Bangalore to Mussoorie ✈️

Of course, I booked an early flight—5 AM—to get there as soon as possible. Bangalore Airport is famous for three things:

1. Its beautiful architecture
2. Lounge food
3. Being way too far from the city 😅

It usually takes 2 to 2.5 hours to reach Kempegowda International Airport from Central Bangalore. Ironically, that’s the same as the flight time from Bangalore to Delhi!

Luckily, I live in North Bangalore, so my midnight ride took just 33 minutes. Had it been 8 PM, it would’ve taken hours even from this side of town.

Packing & Flight Delays 😴

I came home from work, packed my bag, and stayed awake—had to leave home by 2 AM anyway. It was a contrast from my earlier trips like Tirthan Valley or Gokarna, where I overpacked for a week.

My flight got delayed by 1.5 hours, but eventually, I landed in Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun around 8 AM.

Cab Chronicles: Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun to Kempty Falls 🚖

This part was tricky.

I was nervous for 3 reasons:

1. I don’t speak Hindi fluently—especially numbers.
2. What if I take a shared/public ride and can’t find a cab for the next stretch?
3. I didn’t want to rely too much on Google Maps in the mountains—what if I got lost?

I did contact a private driver beforehand who quoted ₹3,500, which felt too much. On arrival into Uttarakhand, I got a message from SpiceJet saying I could book a cab. I kind of relied on my gut here and booked it off. Our gut is always right because:

🚫 There’s no Ola or Uber at Jolly Grant Airport.

Relying on my gut worked. The ride was smooth, and the driver was polite.

I booked the cab via the SpiceJet platform, which offered airport cab services. It cost me ₹2,800 to reach Zostel Plus, Kempty Falls.

Now here’s a quick breakdown of tips and learnings from this journey till here:

✈️ Bangalore to Dehradun

• Ofcourse, Flights are the quickest and most practical way.
• I paid ₹21,000 round-trip for flight tickets from Bangalore to Mussoorie and back (one leg had a layover in Delhi).
• Check for connecting flights—they’re sometimes cheaper, but you lose time. Take it on the onwards journey rather than the return one.

🚕 Bangalore Airport Tips

• Best last-minute ride: Rapido—cheaper than MakeMyTrip (MMT).
• MMT is more reliable, especially for early morning flights.
• Lesson learned: I pre-booked with MMT, but found out Rapido was cheaper at that hour.

🚖 Jolly Grant Airport to Kempty falls

• 💯 Pre – book a cab

Next Time, I’ll Try Public Transport 🚍

Now that I’ve experienced the area, I know that people in the hills are incredibly sweet. If I return to Mussoorie, I’ll try the public bus to reach Mussoorie or a shared cab from Dehradun to Mussoorie.

Funny thing? I got scammed on my way back home in Bangalore—my own hometown! More on that later.

Summary: Travel Tips for Bangalore to Mussoorie

1. 🧳 Total journey time (Bangalore to Mussoorie): 9–10 hours (home-to-hostel)
2. 🛵 Best way to reach Bangalore Airport: Rapido for last-minute rides, MMT for reliability
3. 🚖 Cab vs Public Transport from Dehradun:
   • First-timers (especially solo women): pre-book a cab via your airline or MMT
   • Seasoned travellers: public transport is safe and affordable

Checking in at Zostel Plus, Kempty Falls – Day 1

If you’ve read my previous posts, you’d know that I almost always stay at Zostel on my solo trips. There’s something about the vibe—common room activities, random conversations, and the chance to meet interesting folks from all walks of life.

Mussoorie has two Zostels—one on Mall Road and another near Kempty Falls. I picked the one near the falls. The pictures looked magical, and the idea of staying close to a waterfall sounded dreamy. And yes, it was dreamy.

Tip: Zostel Kempty falls vs Zostel Mall Road:

Those wanting to know thyself and spending me time – go for Zostel Plus Kempty falls

Those wanting to explore mall road and other places like Landour

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Performing v/s being present

Wondering what I am talking about? I’ll explain. 😃

As I stepped inside through the tall gate, I was greeted by the sound of a rushing stream under a canopy of green. It immediately lifted my sleepy spirit. Despite the exhaustion from the overnight journey, I was excited. I climbed three flights of stairs to reach my dorm, panting and reminded of how out of shape I was. But hey, I brushed that aside—I was here to enjoy!

I had come in with expectations—make new friends, have unforgettable experiences, “make the most” of these four precious days. But that internal pressure to have fun on cue? It’s never really fun. It’s unkind. I freeze under pressure, and that’s something I’ve been learning to catch in myself.

Trying to quiet those thoughts, I took a refreshing bath and headed to the café. Ordered dal khichdi—pricey, but one of the best I’ve had. I asked them to pack the leftovers for dinner and crashed onto my dorm bed.

When I checked in, I was the only one in the dorm. By the time I woke up at 4 PM, another traveller had arrived—a woman sitting across from me, working on her laptop. We started talking in English but soon realized we were both from Bangalore. She was Tamilian, fluent in Kannada. What are the odds?

We clicked quickly. She’d been living in Mussoorie for two weeks as a digital nomad. I asked her how it felt—she listed the downsides first, but I could already see her researching her next destination. Guess the freedom still wins.

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Things To Do Around Zostel Plus, Kempty Falls

My dorm-mate offered to take me for a walk and show me a few local spots. We passed by The Hosteller, a rival backpacker stay. Their stream setup was beautiful—chairs and swings placed in the stream. I was drawn to it, though the place seemed under construction and filled with families and kids—not exactly my vibe.

That tug-of-war in my head started again. “You’re here alone because you’re single. Your friends don’t travel much.” But then, a gentle reminder followed: “You’re also free, unbothered, and unbeholden to anyone else’s plans.”

We sat by the stream, had Maggi and peanuts, and spoke about life, relationships, and Bangalore. I was glad I had chosen Zostel Plus.

Tip: Zostel v/s Hosteller: If you are single definitely choose Zostel.

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Am I the Prototype of “Fun on Cue?” 😳

When we returned to Zostel, fairy lights lit up the whole place. The crisp mountain air, the bubbling stream, the quiet—all of it felt like a fairytale. The community manager announced a movie/game night at 8:30 PM.

And again, the pushy voice returned: “You must go, you must talk, you must socialize—it’s your only chance!” But my body had other plans. It wanted rest. Solitude. Journaling. No noise. No small talk.

So, I listened. I watched the common room from the dorm balcony, but nobody showed up. I snuggled under the blanket with music and YouTube videos. It was cold, cozy, and perfect. I slept by 10 PM, and I don’t regret it one bit.

I am not having “fun on cue.”

Day 2: The Secret Waterfalls, Mall Road & Gun Hill Point

The night before, I fantasized about finding a group headed to the “Secret Waterfalls” in the morning. No such luck. But I woke up refreshed at 7 AM and decided to attempt it solo.

Packed my little bag, got ready, and stopped by a small shack by the stream for tea and aloo paratha. Watched a group of girls laugh, a quiet guy smoking in the corner, lost in thought—everyone had a story.

I asked the shopkeeper for directions. He vaguely pointed upstream. It felt sketchy. I hesitated. At Zostel, the manager promised to take a group at 10 AM. Then postponed to 10:30. Then 11. I got impatient and asked for directions again—he gave a rude, dismissive answer.

Still, I took off. The shopkeepers son, who was headed somewhere, showed me the initial part of the trail—told me to look for a wooden bridge and a white house. Sounds simple, right? Except it wasn’t. I reached a crossroad. The forest on the left with a small irrigation canal running through, and farms and trails to main road on the right.

I tried following the irrigation canal, walking on its narrow edge like some lost forest ninja. Eventually, I found villagers who shouted instructions from afar.

I crossed a deserted bridge where the irrigation canal ended. So then doubts appeared in my mind. What did the villagers say straight or left?

Adding to my fear of getting lost was the fear of the deserted home right beside me. What if its haunted? I thought it might be an irrational fear, so I stood there for some time pendulating between left or straight.

I couldn’t get over my fear and hence returned, disappointed slightly. No regrets though—I tried. And I clicked dozens of beautiful daisies growing wild along the trail.

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Is Kempty Falls Overrated?

Back at the shack, I ran into my dormmate again. A couple of guys joined us. Great Maggi. Great conversation. One of them mentioned he had rented a scooter but wasn’t using it. I asked if I could borrow it, and he kindly agreed.

Why I borrowed and not rented my own scooter?

I enquired for scooters, and they quoted a whooping 1000 rupees (the actual price is 500 rupees per day). Hence, I borrowed scooter from him.

Tip: Rent scooter as early as possible to avoid price hikes.

Scooter rides through mountain roads? Always a good idea.

Kempty Falls was 4.5 km away. The ride was the highlight—the wind, the curves, the peace. But the destination? Not so much. Overcrowded. Underwhelming. Vendors said the trek to the upper part of the falls was another 5 km. I passed.

Explored the food stalls nearby and rode a little farther for fun before heading back.

Tip: carry some cash for parking lots. 100 rupees. Your vehicle would be safe. Though you can park it anywhere it’s better to be park at these paid parking spaces

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Did I finally get to go to the “Secret Waterfalls” or No?

Half of day one felt futile. The pushy, planner side of me – let’s call her “Control freak Kshama” – was getting anxious. “What if the next 2.5 days are the same?” I questioned everything: why I took this trip, what was the point of solo travel, and even started Googling and ChatGPT-ing “benefits of solo travel.” Classic monkey mind.

So, I gave up trying to control it all – “Let It Go”. I grabbed my journal and book, sat in the café, ordered some delicious roti and dal, and told myself: “No more overthinking. Just brain dump.”

Then magic happened.

A group of four women walked into the café speaking Kannada. My face lit up! We got talking, and they invited me to join their hike to a secret waterfall. Pranati, my new dorm-mate – a kind and cheerful soul – joined us too.

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Cold Plunges🥶🥶

The hike wasn’t too tough. From the deserted bungalow (the one that gave me the creeps when I went alone earlier), we took the left turn, guided by other hikers.

The “secret” waterfall wasn’t so secret anymore – a decent crowd was already there. We dropped our phones and bags on a big rock and stepped into the freezing water.

Bone-chilling. That’s the only way to describe it. I waded through the shallows, heart racing, body adjusting. At 5 feet deep, it was swimmable for someone my height. I managed to swim up to the waterfall, but the slippery rocks and gushing cold water forced a retreat. Still, what fun!

We swam, laughed, shivered, and then headed back.

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A Christmasy Evening at Mall Road

Next stop – Mall Road and Gun Hill Point. Almost every hill station has a Mall Road. I love them. They feel like Christmas. Be it in K-Dramas or old English films, those snowy dates, ropeways, and twinkling streets have always had my heart.

As we reached, I could see my breath form misty puffs in the cold air. We took a shared cab – a tip for travellers: always go in groups to cut down cab fares. Ours cost ₹4500 in total, which would have been way too expensive solo.

Sometimes I think even the universe couldn’t bear my earlier disappointment. It sent this group to me. 😬

Tip: If on a budget trip always go in groups. Its a little difficult in Zostel Plus Kempty falls to find a group to tag along. Or was it incidental with me. Logically thinking it is nestled quite away from the main town.

For example if you would wish to explore Mall road and you stay near Kempty falls and to your bad luck you don’t find a crowd to tag along, you are by yourself and wish to explore mall road – then you would have to pay 4500 INR for a cab to mall road. In that case it is better to stay at a hostel in Mall Road like the Zostel Mussoorie, Mall Road.

Also before travelling set the intention to travel – explore vs relax – intentional travelling. This way you can travel on budget and avoid travel burnout.

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MALL ROAD

Our cab dropped us a kilometre before the actual Mall Road — Gandhi Chowk was too crowded. We began walking and stopped for some chai on the way. The tea was okay. We hadn’t layered up since the afternoons were warm, but now the chill set in. I’ve always been more tolerant to cold than to heat.

Two of our teammates stopped to buy winterwear while the rest of us moved toward the ropeway ticket counter.

The walk itself was magical. I didn’t shop much — I was just soaking in the Christmasy vibes. I spotted many honeymooners — the newly married women with red bangles and Sindhoor, happy and clicking pics. A large signboard read “Mussoorie – Queen of Hills ❤️ ” on the right.

On one side was the cliff, and on the other, hotels, lodges, and shops — selling trendy clothes and pashmina shawls. What caught my eye was a “Karachi dupatta” — a veil with mirror work and colourful patterns that looked cut out perfectly for a Garba dance. I’ve always wanted one.

Cycle-pulled cabs — tuk-tuks, I was told — weaved through the crowd. The crisp mountain air mixed with the warm yellow twinkling lights and the buzz of the evening crowd. I didn’t buy anything since Pranati and I planned to come back the next day. As the sky turned mauve, we reached the ropeway ticket counter. It was already dark. We were lucky to get the second-last batch for the ride at 7:45 PM. Everyone dispersed for more shopping, but I – honestly – was too tired.

I strolled around and discovered a quaint square — a chowk — on a raised platform. Two traditional Garhwali homes stood across from each other, lit with fairy lights. Beyond them, a viewpoint opened up. Cold winds ran through my hair and numbed the headache I had. The view was magical — tiny yellow and white lights dotting the valley below, like a sky of stars on the ground.

Pranati clicked a lot of selfies and asked me to take her photos every few steps. I got a little annoyed. But she was sweet — the next day she clicked some lovely pictures of me and even showed me the camera tripod she had brought along. So, I’m grateful for that. ❤️

While she explored more, I uploaded some Instagram stories and then joined her for a quick bhel puri at a nearby snack stall. Soon, it was time for the ropeway.

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ROPEWAY TO GUN HILL

Ten of us were packed into the small, rusty cabin. My irrational fears kicked in, but I ignored them. Since it was dark and the cabin was mostly covered, we didn’t get much of a view.

At the top, the air was colder. Shops selling local handmade goods, balloon-shooting games, and food stalls lined the path — but surprisingly, there weren’t many people around. There was a viewpoint, but it was too dark and we knew we couldn’t get a view. So, we decided to leave.

There was a long queue for the return ropeway. I wished for a bathroom. A teammate promised we’d head to a good restaurant next, so I could go there. I felt like a little kid 😬

Two of our team members had a specific restaurant in mind. But they were delayed by shopping, and the rest of us waited for nearly an hour. Meanwhile, the wind grew wilder, and it started to drizzle with flashes of lightning.

Frustrated, I decided to leave. After waiting so long, they wanted us to walk another 3 km — I stayed silent and went along. Ironically, we didn’t even end up eating at the place they had picked. Pranati and I had to wake up at 4 AM the next day for a sunrise trip — this was exhausting. That’s why solo travel is better, though expensive!

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THE HEARTS THAT HURT

Now came another challenge — we were at the opposite end of the Mall Road. Our cab driver refused to come there, so we had to walk all the way back. I was dead tired.

Luckily, we found a tuk-tuk cab. Our driver was an elderly man. He struggled on the uphill, physically pulling the cab instead of cycling. Watching that was painful. He was clearly too old for this, yet doing it to earn a living. I frequently asked him if he could do it. he replied with zest – “hojayega madam.” My heart sank.

The fare was just ₹150 for three of us. At the end of the ride, I gave him ₹450 — an extra ₹300. He smiled and thanked me. I hope it helped… but my heart still aches for him.

After that, we walked another kilometre. Finally, we found our cab and reached Zostel. The relaxing vibe of the day was long gone by the time we returned from Gun Hill.

But well, this is what I was asking for in the morning, right! 😒

I took a hot shower and crashed into bed.

Day two ended with tired feet, a full heart, and a deeper understanding of solo travel: it isn’t always easy, but it’s almost always worth it.

🌄 Coming up next: I’ll take you through the cobbled charm of Landour on day three — home to Ruskin Bond and endless pines, the stream that taught me peace, the bonfire that softened my heart, a woman who became a mirror, and the airport scam that cost me ₹4000 — but gave me a powerful lesson.

👉 Don’t miss Part 2 — it’s where the magic unfolds.🌲📚

Stay tuned!

Can we go to Mussoorie by flight?

NO. Take a flight to Dehradun and pre book a cab to mussoorie. Or take a public transport like bus.

Which is the nearest airport to Mussoorie?

Jolly Grant Airport, Dehradun

Which month is best to visit Mussoorie?

Feb – May